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Certified Organic Actives for Skin Care Formulations
Of late, buzz words and trends have started to come up and make us question our necessities: organic, green, natural. It can be confusing as to exactly what these terms mean when they’re being applied to the skin care products.
Skin care originated with natural sources. Over time, those sources have been tested and researched; irritants have been removed, active chemicals/enzymes have been isolated or synthetically produced to become the ingredients we’re familiar with today.
Why Use Organic Actives?
When using skin care and personal care products have you ever experienced these symptoms of allergic reactions?
  • Irritations of the skin such as...redness, stinging, dryness, dermatitis, rashes or hives.
  • Irritations of the eye such as...redness and stinging
A large portion of the population experiences these allergic reactions.
These are the obvious external problems encountered by consumers. What about the not so obvious internal long-term problems caused by toxins and chemicals being absorbed through the skin?
We are misinformed, if we think that the skin does not absorb toxins and chemicals.
How do you think skin patches work? These are prescribed as an alternative way to administer medicines and HRT; for example: Nicotine patches are used to help people give up smoking. All these patches work by the ingredients being absorbed through the skin.
If these chemicals administered in specific controlled doses can permeate the skin surface and are absorbed into our body system to treat a disease condition, then why not the harmful chemicals from skin care products – employed for facial skin treatment, hair care products including shampoos etc.
Most manufactured skin-care and beauty products contain countless chemicals and irritating ingredients.
There are over 75,000 chemicals registered with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and only a fraction of them have been completely tested for long-term affects on human health. Some products have not been tested at all because they are using common “industry” ingredients.
Allergic reactions to synthetic chemicals are easily prevented by using certified organic skin care, products, cosmetics and personal care products.
Organically sourced ingredients must be produced without the use of antibiotics, synthetic hormones, genetic engineering, sewage sludge, or irradiation. On top of this they are minimally processed without artificial ingredients or preservatives. Fewer toxins are released into the environment, and are less likely to make it into the skin care products.
In is noteworthy that most products that contain “certified organic” ingredients do contain higher levels of naturally occurring nutrients and anti-oxidants, making them ideal for skin-care. Their strengths lie in gentle exfoliants and keeping skin radiant and healthy. Natural ingredients may still contain naturally occurring irritants.
How do you know if it’s actually Organic?
This is the interesting question. Currently the USDA has strict regulations in place for organically grown produce, but hasn’t quite caught up totally to the skin-care products. In the US and in other countries there are multiple third party organizations that can certify organic.
However organic skin care product labels can be misleading when a label lists "natural" or "organic" ingredients this does not mean the same as certified organic.
As an example, lanolin which is manufactured from wool grease, the wax coating on the natural wool of sheep, is used in many types of skin care products. It is usually touted as natural and pure. What the customer isn't told is that the sheep have probably been dipped (submerged or sprayed) with chemical pesticides to rid them of lice. Unless the lanolin is adequately purified residual traces of the pesticides remain and are easily absorbed by our skin. What would be certified organic would be lanolin obtained from organically farmed sheep.
There is NO authority governing the term "natural" or "organic" on labels.
However, there are internationally recognised certifying bodies who govern the use of the term certified organic. If the product you are using claims to be organic but is not supported by the certifying body's logo it means absolutely nothing.
Certified Organic...
What Does This Mean?
Independent certifying bodies operate according to strict international standards. The entire process of product development is rigorously monitored beginning with the seed...
  • how it is grown
  • harvested
  • stored
  • transported
  • processed
1.   Finished product should display the certified organic logo, ideally certified organic by independent third      party certifiers;provided each stage is completed according to the international standards.
2.   Furthermore, it is desired that all high quality products including organic actives are formulated using a cold      bioactive method which ensures the nutrients are totally available - in other words, high heat hasn't      rendered the ingredients useless.
3.   Every ingredient in every product should be beneficial. Absolutely no chemical preservatives or emulsifiers      should be used.
4.   Certified organic facial skin care is often designed around four different skin profiles
  • Balancing - Normal/Combination skin
  • Rejuvenating - Dry/Mature skin
  • Purifying - Oily/Problem skin
  • Soothing - Sensitive skin
5.   There is a fast growing worldwide move towards healthy organics and better health; and more than 60% of       consumers are expected to be buying certified organic products.
It is a matter of concern that “Organic” labeling is an extremely gray area and compliance is completely voluntary, allowing companies to claim anything they like and saturating the market with trendy yet misleadingly labeled products.
The Most up-to-date Guidelines Addressing this issue:
  • Products that claim “100% Organic” can contain only organically produced ingredients, not including water (which can be upwards of 70% of the product). These can display the USDA Organic Seal
  • Products labeled “Organic” must contain 95% organically produced ingredients
  • Products with 70-94% organic ingredients can use the phrase “made with organic ingredients” and list up to three ingredients on a display panel or post the percentage
  • Products with less than 70% organic ingredients may not even use the term “organic” on displays; only list the ingredients on the label. This means that products with at least one organic ingredient used in large quantities can be labeled “organic,” regardless of the other ingredients used in them.
In USA, small cosmetic manufacturers that sell less than $5,000 a year in organic products are exempt from certification. They can label their products organic if they follow the standards, but they cannot display the USDA Organic Seal.
Knowledge of organic activities is important for informing consumers, about environmental issues. Many people are just realizing the harmful effects many products have on the environment.
The Role of Certified Organic Actives in Skin Care
Inclusion of certified organic actives, in skin-care products results in clinical improvements in skin tone and texture correction of the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin and effective anti-sebum and anti-bacterial effects in pimple/acne control without subjecting the facial skin to chemical toxicity.
With more consumers interested in following a healthy and eco-conscious lifestyle, de- mand for natural and certified organic skin care products has grown tremendously in the past couple of years. Indeed, it is more than a trend, consumers today expect their skin care products to be natural containing certified organic active ingredients that respond, safe and efficacious and to the main skin health claims; for example: anti-aging, anti-free radicals, moisturizing and soothing.
These active ingredients have proven benefits and are certified “natural and organic”. They are developed from herbs/plants grown using organic farming methods.
All certified organic activities are safe, because they are subjected to critical analysis that proves the efficacy of these organic active ingredients of skin care products.
The current trend in cosmetic formulation is to use certified organic actives as ingredients in the composition of final products.
This defines a requirement level guaranteeing the genuine practice of environmental respect throughout the production line, from the raw material (coming from certified organic farming) to the finished product. Accordingly, these certified organic active ingredients, are made of:
  • More than 99% of each ingredient is of natural origin
  • More than 99% of the ingredient is derived from organic farming, as indicated on their labels.
They effectively meet the main expectations of the skin-care and cosmetic industry: anti-aging, anti-free radicals, moisturizing and soothing.
Certified Organically Grown Produce: Safety Considerations
Popularity of natural and organic foods is increasing as many consumers seek what they perceive as safer and more effective skin care products and more nutritious food produced under sustainable and ethical conditions.
Residues of Pesticides and Drugsa.
1.   wide range of synthetic chemicals are used in conventional agriculture and some of these persist as      residues in the produce.
2.   Small amounts of pesticide residues are unavoidable on organic crops because farmers cannot control all       environmental sources.
3.   Wind or water may spread pesticides and some pesticides may persist for several years in soil and be taken       up by plants even  after the land has been switched to organic production.
4.    Residue levels in crops are monitored by government agencies; most samples test below regulatory limits.
5.    Nevertheless, there is some concern that long term exposure to very small amounts of pesticides may have        detrimental effects.
6.    Nearly all samples of organically grown herbs and plants for medicinal use and food have significantly lower        levels of these  chemicals than their conventional counterparts.
How Safe are Organic Actives?
1.    Recent research provides data that support the safety profile of organic actives; but results are not always       clear-cut..
2.    Manure used to fertilize organic produce may contain pathogenic bacteria and it has been suggested that        organically grown herbs/plants and vegetables will potentially have greater numbers of food borne        pathogens because synthetic fertilizers are not used.
3.    Furthermore, use of manure or compost that was aged <12 months was associated with much higher levels       of beacterial contamination on produce than that seen on farms using older materials.
4.    However, organically cultivated produce appears to have higher amounts of certain nutrients and protective       compounds, such as vitamin C, Iycopene, and phenolic compounds. Concentrations of these protec¬tive       compounds also vary with variety and climate and soil conditions.
5.    Phenolic compounds may act as antioxidants and exert other protective effects in the body.
6.    Concentra¬tions of total phenolics and of particular phenolic compounds vary with climate and plant variety       but have also been reported to be higher in organically grown berries, some varieties of tomatoes, apples       and yellow plums.
7.    Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) levels have been reported to be higher in organically grown potatoes, some        tomatoes, yellow plums and strawberries.
The use of natural ingredients in skin care dates back to early civilizations. In the absence of modern manufacturing technology, products of nature formed the basis of skin protection and skin care. Civilizations recognized early on the dermatologic benefits of substances such as soy, oats, essential oils, and a multitude of plant derivatives.
Advances in pharmaceutical and cosmetic biochemistry and in manufacturing technology have given rise to countless chemical and synthetic products that have proven invaluable to skin care. However, modern technology has augmented, but not replaced, natural ingredients, which continue to play a central role in skin care. It is noteworthy that more than 40% of all new skin care products contain one or more natural ingredients.
Natural ingredients and certified organic actives as ingredients in skin-care products.
Objective evaluation of products containing natural ingredients and certified organic ingredients requires a basic:
1.     Understanding of some key terms. "Natural" means that a substance is neither artificial nor pathologic,         Natural ingredients are extracted directly from plants or animal products. .
2.    "Organic," often used synonymously--and incorrectly--with natural, refers to products made with agricultural        ingredients that  were grown without the use of pesticides.
3.     The concerned Authorities have further defined various levels of organic products.
4.     Only those agricultural products derived from a 100% pesticide-free environment can be labeled as 100%         organic.
5.     Ingredients grown in a 95% pesticide-free environment can be called organic.
6.     Products from a 70% pesticide-free growing process can be described as "made with organic ingredients."
Difference between Organic and Natural Herbs/Plants
“What is the difference between organic and natural herbs and plants?”. Many people think that there is no difference between the two and both mean the same. But this is not true. If you compare organic and natural from their definitions, the difference will be clear.
Organic herbs refer to herbs/plants that are produced, manufactured and handled using organic means defined by certifying bodies. Natural on the other hand, generally refers to herbs/plants items that are not altered chemically or synthesized in any form. These are derived from plants source per se.
Apparently, the demand for products with organic actives is more than ‘natural’ ingredients because organic produce seals are granted and monitored in accordance to strict guidelines by regulatory authorities.
Difference Between Natural and Organic Herbs/Plants, Vegetables On Different Parameters:
Parameter Organic Herbs/Plants/Vegetable Natural Herbs/Plants/Vegetable
Definition Organic actives refers to items that are produced using organic means. Natural items are minimally synthesized.
Standards Stringent standards for organic production, handling and processing exist throughout the world. Stringent standards do not exist for natural products in many parts of the world.
Certification Bodies Many countries have certification bodies, the most prominent being the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). The International Association of Natural Products Producers (IANPP) is trying to get the definitions for natural products into place. It should be noted that it is not a certification body.
Labels Organic labels have legal implications. A manufacturer should follow the specified rules and regulations before using the certified organic label. Natural labels are normally used freely by manufacturers due to lack of adequate guidelines.
Demand Demand for certified organic products is more than the demand for natural products. The demand for natural products is also increasing; however, not as much as certified organic products.
Health Benefits People prefer certified organic products because they feel it is safer than conventional products as toxic chemicals are not used in its production. People prefer natural products, including herbs/plants/vegetables because they believe excessive processing disturbs their health benefits.
Price Products with organic actives are priced more than non-organic produce.
Parameter Organic Herbs/Plants/Vegitables Natural Herbs/Plants/Vegitables
Shelf life Shelf life of certified organic actives is more than that of natural products. You can store these for a longer duration. Shelf life is comparatively less, since these are minimally processed.
In conclusion,
What makes organic products different and who "Certifies" organic farms and produce?
1.     The process of manufacturing organic products is based on a system of farming that:
  • maintains and replenishes the soil fertility without the use of toxic fertilizers and pesticides
  • uses no gene-altering production methods
  • uses minimal production "processes" so the natural goodness of the ingredients are maintained
2.     Certifications are granted by a third-party organization. Strict production methods and processes must be         followed and private inspections are performed regularly of the crops, buildings,and processing/packaging         systems. Periodic testing of both the water and soil are also performed and recorded. This ensures that         the high standards for organic agriculture are  being met on an on-going basis. For example, no prohibited         substances are to have been used on the land in the past three years to being an organic farm.
This ensures high standards for certified organic actives in skin care products that are significantly efficacious and safe.
Harmful Skincare Ingredients to Avoid!
There are many toxic chemicals used in the conventional manufacturing of skin care; beauty and cosmetic products. Some ingredients should be avoided more than others as they have been linked to such conditions as rashes, allergies, asthma, headaches, hormonal imbalances, cancer and even reproductive complications. Needless to say, they also have a negative impact on the environment.
AVOID if possible!
  • Parabens- these are commonly used preservatives. They can mimic estrogen which can play a role in the development of breast cancers.
  • Coal Tar- an irritant and carcinogen
  • Fermaldehyde- can be found in some baby soap, nail polishes, and hair dyes. This can cause immune-system toxicity, respiratory irritation and even cancer.
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfates (SLS)- this ingredient is commonly used to create the "foaming action" of soaps and shampoos. It can cause general skin irritation or eczema.
  • Phthalates- often used as a fragrance in many skincare products. Can cause endocrine disruption.
  • Hydroquinone- often used in skin moisturizers and lighteners. It can cause skin irritations, allergic reactions.
Organic Farming
Organic Farming systems stress on natural bio-cycles, crop rotations, use of natural resources for production and pest management. These systems also apply natural laws like lunar and solar rhythms.
The use of chemicals has on one hand delivered excess production of food grains for the growing population but on the other hand posses a number of economical, ecological and health concerning challenges.
Chemicals in the form of pesticide residue in medicinal herbs, vegetables, fruit and cereals play havoc in the human body. Furthermore, chemicals in the form of fertilizer inhibit natural plant growth and food is devoid of vital nutrients. Chemicals in water, air and soil cause pollution affecting us indirectly.
Organic agriculture is a holistic production management system that promotes the health of the agro-ecosystem related to biodiversity, nutrient biological cycles, soil microbial and biochemical activity.
Biodynamic farming is a principal of organic farming where chemical fertilizers are replaced by microbial nutrient givers like algae, fungi, bacteria, micorhiza and actinomycetes. Biological pest management is the process of using the natural predators of pests like birds and parasites instead of chemical pesticides. Composting, green manuring, crop rotation, mixed cropping, bird perches and trap crops are other principles of organic farming. The Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) and the Department of Agriculture and Cooperation (DAC) are involved in promoting organic farming in India
Organic manure covers manure made from cattle dung, excreta of other animals, rural and urban composts, other animal wastes, crop residues and green manures. This is how these wastes are useful in improving the fertility and productivity of soils:
  • Cattle dung leads to soil porosity, excreta from other animals betters the water stable aggregates.
  • Rural and urban compost improves the water holding capacity of the soil.
  • Other animal wastes betters the infiltration rate.
  • Crop residues and green manures improve hydraulic conductivity.
Most farmers choose to use farmland manure because it is commonly available. Other advantages are its ability to improve the soil, tilth and aeration, increase the water holding capacity of the soil and stimulate the activity of microorganisms that make plant food elements in the soil.
Composting is the process of reducing vegetable and animal waste to a quickly utilizable condition. This is done through the action of microorganisms on the wastes. These wastes may include leaves, roots, stubbles, crop residues, straw, hedge clippings, weeds, water hyacinth, saw dust, kitchen wastes and human habitation wastes. The waste materials undergo intensive decomposition under medium-high temperatures in heaps or pits with adequate moisture for around 3-6 months. The finished compost is an amorphous, brown to dark brown mix of humified materials.
The best green manure should possess the following traits:
  • Show early establishment and high seedling vigour
  • Be tolerant to drought, shade, flood and adverse temperature
  • Possess early onset of N fixation and its efficient sustenance
  • Have an ability to accumulate large bio mass and nitrogen in 4-6 weeks
  • Is easy to incorporate
  • Is quickly decomposable
  • Is tolerant to pest and diseases
Organic Farming in India
Organic farming was practiced in India since thousands of years. The great Indian civilization thrived on organic farming and India was one of the most prosperous countries in the world, till the British ruled it.
Since the beginning of green revolution in the 1960s, farmers in India have been using very high doses of chemical fertilizers and pesticides in order to increase production. This practice of chemical-based farming has undoubtedly affected the fertility level of agricultural soil and quality of ground water & agricultural produce. Industrialisation has also adversely affected the quality of water which in turn has affected the quality of agricultural produce.
Interestingly, although farmers are aware of the adverse impact of chemical-based farming on health and environment, the level of awareness about alternative methods of cultivation is either nil or very little. Under the circumstance, promotion of organic farming as an alternative method of farming for protection of health and environment assumes great importance.
In organic farming, the farm is viewed as an economy
As mentioned above, organic farming is a way of farming which excludes the use of off-farm inputs such as chemical fertilizer, pesticides, insecticides etc and is primarily based on the principle: use of natural organic inputs and biological plant protection measures. Properly managed organic farming reduces or eliminates water pollution and helps conserve water and soil on the farm thereby enhances sustainability and agro-biodiversity. Indian farmers have an inherent understanding of how to work closely with the nature, because only 30 per cent of India’s total cultivable area is covered with fertilizers because of assured irrigation and the balance 70 per cent of arable land is mainly rain-fed with little or zero use of fertilizer. It isn’t a profit oriented but social-profit oriented. Commitment to nature protection is a pre-requisite to organic farming. India has comparative advantage over many other countries because of the vast cultivated area, which has remained free of contamination from chemicals, spread over distinctly varying agro climatic conditions, for example, large area in north-east region, northern hills and rain fed regions with very low or zero use of agro chemicals, can be instantly converted to organic farming. Farmers in these areas often use organic manure as a source of nutrients that are readily available either in their own farm or in their locality.
Both consumers and farmers are now gradually shifting back to organic farming in India. It is believed by many that organic farming is healthier. Consumers are willing to pay higher premium for the same. Many farmers in India are shifting to organic farming due to the domestic and international demand for certified organic produce. Further stringent standards for non-organic food in European and US markets have led to rejection of many Indian food consignments in the past. Organic farming, therefore, provides a better alternative to chemical farming.
According to the International Fund for Agriculture and Development (IFAD), about 2.5 million hectares of land was under organic farming in India in 2004. Further, there are over 15,000 certified organic farms in India. India, therefore is one of the most important suppliers of organic produce to the developed nations. No doubt, the organic movement has again started in India.
In fact organic farming is another revolution emerging as Viable Alternative of Farming. It has the potential to transform agriculture as the main tool for nature conservation. Large scale shift to organic farming would bring better results and not reduce the supply of farm produce which is the apprehension among few scientists. Indian farmers and the traders can exploit the huge demand, both the domestic as well as global market for organic products.
Indian Organic Seal
To promote and develop the Indian organic movement and to maintain its quality system at par with the international standard as to receive reciprocal approval from other countries, a National Programme of Organic Production (NPOP) has been launched which provides an institutional mechanism for the improvement of National Standards for organic products through a National Accreditation Policy and Programmes. In order to provide reorganization to organic products destined for export to the US, APEDA on the behalf of Ministry of Commerce (MOC) had initiated a process of equivalence of Indian Standard under NPOP with US standards since May 2002. Recently, USAD has agreed to recognize our accreditation system and the certificate of organic agricultural product by certification bodies accredited under NPOP for import of organic product into US with effect from February 16, 2006.
USAD has accepted affixing the Indian Organic seal along with USAD organic seal on Indian products as well as certificate. This will help the exporter by reducing the cost of certification which they have to pay to the international agencies. Indian Organic seal is thus going to gain popularity. Indian farmers and traders can exploit the huge domestic as well as international market for organic products.